Frequently Asked Questions

General Info on Alice Springs

Camping and Access

Ethics and Etiquette

General questions on climbing in Central Australia


  General Info on Alice Springs
 
What is the regions climate?
 

While climbing in Central Australia is possible all year round, the winter months offer a much better climbing temperature than you might experience in summer. Winter is an especially good time to visit, as the weather at most other Southern crags is generally cold and miserable.

Not surprisingly the peak tourist season is the winter months (April - September). The days are often mild, sometimes warm, and always sunny (well not always, but the chances are pretty good). The night temperatures (all year round) usually drop about 18 deg below the day time temperature, so night temperatures in winter often reach 0 deg C - you'll need a warm swag, and a campfire to keep you warm.

Summer months (October - March) are VERY hot, with temperatures often reaching 40 deg C or more (in the shade), and climbing at many cliffs is not recommended. However, climbing is still quite possible, providing you take the necessary precautions, and you stick to cliffs in the shade. You might also wish to visit one of the many water holes for a swim on the way back to Alice Springs.

Although mostly dry, summer is the season where Central Australia sees the most rain, and spectacular thunderstorms. Rivers are generally dry, but can grow to full intensity with lots of rain.

 
Average Daily Maximum Temperatures (Celsius)
January 35.9 July 19.4
February 34.7 August 22.3
March 32.3 September 26.5
April 28.0 October 30.5
May 22.8 November 33.3
June 19.8 December 35.2
 


Precautions to take during summer:

  • Know where you are going, the direction the cliff is facing, and the nearest town or waterhole.
  • Take note of cliff shade times in this guide, and plan your trip accordingly.
  • Always take plenty of water - about 3 litres per person per day. Always have a spare 10 litres of water in the car, in case you get stuck, or run out.
  • Avoid climbing on any cliff in the sun. You'll get drained very quickly, as well as burnt, and very very hot. Climbers have got blisters on their feet from simply doing a short climb that was in the sun.
  • Warning: The Common Fly is far more prevalent in summer, be warned!

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Where can I buy climbing or camping equipment in Alice Springs?
 

There's good quality camping shop called Lone Dingo, that is only 50m East of the 'Sails' in the Todd Mall. They now stock the climbing basics - chalk, cord, tape, biners, some gear and shoes. Although you're best to bring most of your own. More details are in the contacts section.
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Where do I find out more information on accommodation, or Alice Springs in general?
 

Visit the links section, there are a couple of Alice Springs websites which have all this info. Your local travel center might also be able to help with this.
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What is the geology of the area?
  Hmm, I might have to consult a Geologist on this one. What I (think I) know is that the area is substantially quartzite sandstone, of varying hardness, and was probably laid down millions of years ago around when there was a great inland sea. Somewhere in between the sandstone eras was a relatively short limestone era (presumably when there was an inland sea). A large range (The MacDonnells) then formed due to some major earth movements and folding events (the range was once VERY high I have been told) but has now been weathered down to an average of about 300m. The limestone band was exposed from this folding and is about 500m thick. Some caves, a lot of shitty rock, a few great crags are now to be found.
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  Camping and Access
 
Can I camp at the crags, or are there designated camping areas?
 

Camping out under the stars in Central Australia shouldn't be missed. Clear skies and thousands of stars are almost guaranteed. Camping in the dry river beds is highly recommended, offering easy access and minimum impact camping. You can camp at (or near) many crags described in this guide.

Please take all your rubbish away, bury your shit, and don't camp just beside the road, or at tourist areas (unless permitted).

BC = Bush Camp at crag
BC (5km) = Bush Camping within 5km of crag, no facilities
DC = Designated Camping area, with facilities

 
Crag Camping Closest
Accommodation
Heavytree Quarry No Alice Springs
Charles River No Alice Springs
Emily Gap No Alice Springs
Jessie Gap No Alice Springs
The Unknown BC (5km) Alice Springs
Mt Benstead Creek BC Alice Springs
Trephina Gorge Area DC / BC (5km) Alice Springs
Ross River BC Alice Springs
Serpentine Gorge BC (5km) Alice Springs
Ormiston Gorge DC / BC (5km) Glen Helen homestead
Glen Helen DC/ BC (5km) Glen Helen homestead
Kings Canyon DC Kings Canyon resort
Mt Conner BC Curtin Springs station
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Do I need to bring a tent?
  No. A groundsheet, or piece of canvas is all that you need to put your bedding on, unless you're lucky enough to score a swag (canvas bedroll). Nights in winter do get very cold though, so you'll still need plenty of warm stuff. Of course if you can't stand the thought of sleeping under the stars, then you can bring a tent if you wish.
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Do I need a 4WD?
  Unless stated, all of the crags in this guide only require two wheel drive. Some areas such as Mt Benstead require 4WD to get close to the cliff, and other more remote areas (not listed) require 4WD access - especially for crossing or driving up soft-sand river beds.
Otherwise a 4WD comes in handy when finding more remote camping spots.
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Are the water holes safe to swim in?
  Despite what many people think, there are no crocodiles in Central Australia (they reside about 1000km N in the tropics). Finding a nice cool waterhole in summer is like nothing else, and is the only way to finish off a hard days climbing. Beware if the water holes are very low, as they might contain algae (good or bad stuff I don't know). If the water looks good, then most likely it is. Ask the rangers, or locals if you're not sure.
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  Ethics and Etiquette
 


What are the general climbing ethics?

 

Ethics will often vary from crag to crag. As a general rule, climbing around or above any tourist areas is not allowed and please stay off crags where climbing has been banned. Heed the advice of park rangers and landowners.

Regarding protection, natural pro is used wherever it exists, and some crags have a no-bolting ethic. There are no sport specific crags in Central Australia.

It is important to the local climbing community that you don't cause any trouble, as this climbing is all they have, and any attention drawn to careless or senseless climbers could result in closures.
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Can I climb Uluru (Ayers Rock)?

 

Aboriginal custodians have requested that visitors to Uluru do NOT make the regular tourist climb, as it goes against their traditions and customs. Despite the request, you can still climb up the North Western corner - the tourist route.

Apart from that, there is absolutely no climbing of any sort allowed in the park - at either Uluru, or the Oglas (Kata Tjuta). If you go there (and it's highly recommended that you do), you'll see why. The place is amazing just to look at, and you don't mind not being able to climb when you see the power of the place - and how bad the rock is :-). >>More.

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What is a Sacred Site?

  A Sacred Site is a an area that is of significant cultural importance to the local Aboriginal people who have lived on the land for the past 40,000 years or so. Many of the major sites (gorges, water holes, etc) have become tourist attractions, but for many sites, the exact location, and importance of each area is not marked in black and white, so you must exercise a degree of caution, and respect for anywhere you visit, and use your common sense. Please read the 'Access and Ethics' notes for each crag.
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Can I place bolts?
  At almost every crag in Australia that is within a national park, bolting is technically illegal. This is certainly the case in Central Australia. All crags near tourist attractions, or in the gorges should remain entirely bolt free, and don't place ANY bolts on cliffs where there are none already - there is probably a good reason for it. Crags on private land should be assessed crag-by-crag, and permission should be obtained from the owners where possible. If you do want to bolt something, then consult the locals first.
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  General questions on climbing in Central Australia
 


What sort of climbing gear should I bring?

 

Climbing at nearly all crags requires at least some natural protection. If you're climbing on natural gear, then bring a full rack, with cams to size 3, bolt plates, plenty of nuts, draws, etc.

If you just stick to the sport type crags, then all you need is:
- A few wires and small cams
- 3 or 4 Bolt plates
- 10-15 Quickdraws
- A few slings / long slings
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Is there any potential for new routes?

  Central Australia is vast, and when you think that most of the established climbing areas are based within 2km of a major road, there must still be shitloads of climbing still out there. That said, most of the regions with the best gorges and cliffs do have roads leading to them, and those that remain to be discovered are likely to be very remote and largely inaccessible. It would pay to have some local experience (i.e. live there) before going off on some wild adventure to find new areas, and permission should be sort before establishing or bolting any climbs.
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What abbreviations are used in this website?
 

All the usual for East (E), West (W), North (N), South (S), Left (L), and Right (R). I have also taken the liberty of assigning a star to good climbs that are well worth doing. I have not used the standard three star ratings, which I'll leave for a proper guidebook editor to worry about. Stars are relative to Central Australian climbing only, and should not be compared with other areas.

BR

Bolt Runner

*

Climb well worth doing

FH

Fixed Hanger

FFA

First Free Ascent

RB

Ring Bolt

FRA

First Recorded Ascent

DBB

Double Bolt Belay

FTRA First Top Rope Ascent
LHV

Left Hand Variant

RHV Right Hand Variant
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  If you have any more questions, please don't hesitate to email me.