Summary:
Magnificent gorge, with huge walls of often very suspect rock. Only experienced climbers should tackle these cliffs, and with a great deal of caution. There is a huge quantity of rock (of varying qualities) in the gorge, much of which awaits first ascents. Nice place to climb though, with great surrounds, waterholes and wildlife.

Access and Ethics:
This area is situated in the West MacDonnell National Park, and the governing rangers would appreciate it if you called them (08 8956 7799) before you wish to climb. There is a no bolting ethic within the gorge.

Getting There:
Serpentine Gorge is a tourist attraction 100km W of Alice. Take Larapinta Drive from Alice Springs, and follow the signs. The climbs are situated within, or on the sides of the main gorge.

Notes:
There is a waterhole (non permanent) guarding the entrance to the gorge. If it's full, then you'll probably have to swim (up to 150m) - take your gear across on an air-mattress. In the dry season it may be empty (or partially full), in which case you can walk through, or scramble around the sides. One advantage to the waterhole is that is stops the tourists from going any further.

Sadism Buttress

The following two climbs are on the last major cliff on R (E) before you reach the waterhole, and 200m past large cave high on R as you walk in.

Bull in a China Shop 100m 19
Hideously scary adventure on atrocious rock, first climbed in 39deg heat. Beware of precarious loose blocks, and questionable protection. Start in major corner 10m L of grey forked ghost gum (R of smooth solid looking wall with horizontal breaks). 1) 50m (18) Very loose, rope stretching pitch. Corner, then faces to first small (thin) hanging gum. Up 3m then tiptoe diagonally R and up to ledge on top of pinnacle on R. 2) 30m (19). Even more dangerous! Traverse L round small corner, then up a little to ledges below roof. Traverse L along ledges to easy stance in major corner. Up to prominent, white ghost gum. Solid(ish) crack in middle of face to roof. Traverse R below roof to belay immediately beyond two very loose blocks on R. 3) 20m (14). Easier ground to just R of small roof and R of large old dead tree at top. Steve Thornton, Kieran Culhane (alt) 2/11/96

What the Fuck! 35m 14
'Another expedition into hell on loose rock held together by a thin smear of mud.' Start 20m R of BSC. Scramble up 10m to L leaning, forked ghost gum. Follow ill-defined line to prominent, white ghost gum with large bulbous root. Abseil retreat from ghost gum. Originally done in two pitches. Nick Isgro, George Butcher 2/11/96

West Wall

Traverse round waterhole to huge overhanging wall on L.

*Pre-nuptial Adventures 72m 23
'An outrageous adventure' tackling the complex and overhanging W wall of the gorge. Rock and pro much better than they look. FA on sight. 1) 25m (21) Up poorly protected wall 50m L of large L leaning corner. L under small overhang, then round it by very short corner to loose, blocky ledge. Steeply up L to small ledge below last overhang on lower section of wall. 2) 22m (23) Traverse 8m R, then up corner to large sloping ledge. Up steep and dubious-looking rock to vague L-facing corner. Up this to small stance on R. 3) 25m (18) Traverse 15m L between major roofs, then up easy wall. Roark Muhlen-Schulte, Simon Mentz (alt) 2/5/93

Far North East Buttress

Walk through to almost the end of the Gorge, to about 200m short of where it narrows, and a large pinnacle of rock (a Gendarme). There should be a wall split by numerous cracks, and a wall to the left with three slabs.

Terrapin 70m 15M1
This climb takes the crack between the second and third slabs (counting from the L). Descent is down the N side of the Gendarme. 1) 40m Climb the crack until a ledge appears from the L, piton runner. Up overhanging crack, with a point of aid used to gain top. Up easily to stance and belay. 2) 30m Continue up crack until it is possible to traverse L, just below the top, to gain the edge. Across and up easy rock to stance and belay. John Griffiths, Keith Sedden 24/3/73