Summary:
Good limestone not far from a pub (that is now sadly closed after Grollo got his hands on it). The climbs are naturally protected (bolting is now allowed), and is generally good, but much of the rock is very sharp, typical of vertical limestone exposed to the elements. Beware that some climbs are harder than they look, and often contain loose, runout climbing towards the top.

Access and Ethics:
Since the Ross River pub was closed by Grollo, the land owned by the homestead has not renewed it's public liability insurance and has closed all the roads (with shiny new gates), however if you call the manager at Ross River, and ask to climb at the Sphinx, they won't mind you driving out there. Just ask permission first. Get the phone number from an Alice Springs directory.

Getting There:
Follow the Ross Hwy all the way to Ross river (just short of the actual Homestead). Turn around and backtrack for about 400m. Turn R (Nth) into a gravel road. Pass a gate, with a nasty 'no-access' sign, which takes you direct to the crag, about 3km.

Notes:
Bolts are currently not permitted by the station owners.

The Sphinx

The Sphinx is the Western buttress that the area is named after. The south side of this buttress is black, and has sharp blades all over it to catch you unawares if you grovel your body past it. The Northern side is orange, smooth, and bulgy.

*Sharp as Schick 15m 15
Sharp finger crack that splits the W face of the buttress. Good pro. Allison Garrett, J.Beaudois 5/95

The following climbs are found on the south face of the Sphinx.

*Big Yerba Goes Forth 18m 19
A reasonably obvious crack roughly 4m from the L end of the face. Damian Auton 5/95

*To the Elbow 15m 22
Great climbing with bomber gear. At the right end of the face are some obvious big 'hueco' holes, R of the major overhang. Join the dots and head up the line of pockets to finish on the ramp. Lucas Trihey, Chris Jackson, Bob McMahon (onsight) 18/11/96

Bluff Burger 15m 22
Good climbing but the lack of pro would guarantee a crater if you fell. Groove 2m R of TE past obvious thread to finish on the ramp. Initially Lucas lead a lot of the climb onsight, but accepted a top rope thrown from above rather than risk the consequences. FTRA Lucas Trihey, Chris Jackson 18/11/96

The following two climbs are on the S side of the Sphinx's 'head'. Walk up the main ramp until you're standing below the two main cracks on the head.

*Jacko The Knife 10m 17
The obvious LH crack. Up slanting crack and past bulge to top. Lucas Trihey, Chris Jackson, Heather Dutton, Bob McMahon, Bruce Cameron 18/11/96

*The Final Cut 10m 16
The right obvious crack. Luke Trihey, Heather Dutton, Chris Jackson 18/11/96

*The Groper 20m 22
An entertaining thrash up a steep line on the N wall. Follow the pocketed crack approximately 10m N of the saddle. Upon reaching the ledge after the main difficulties, continue up the line until a move R (below a suss block) leads to easy ground. Simon Mentz, Ronnie Sammut, Glenn Tempest 2/10/96

The following climb is on the small buttress between the Sphinx and The Eastern Bloc.

*In For Your Cut 18m 18
Nice moves. Start just R of orange rock at the L end of the south face. Up brown wall with some fear and trepidation to reach good edges. A bold lead due to its runout and potential ground plant finish. Bruce Cameron, Bob McMahon 18/11/96

The Eastern Bloc

The Eastern Bloc is the Eastern buttress (surprised?). It provides many good naturally protected lines. To descend you can rap from some old fixed 11mm rope slings, or have a scary downclimb.

Horse's Head 15m 12
Crack that splits the W face of the buttress. The whole face is only a few metres wide. Simon Watson, Lynne Robinson 5/95

The following climbs are found on the south face of the buttress.

Crankin' Canadian 15m 22
The line of pockets on the orange rock at the L end of the S face. Start just L of Mr Ed's Chimney. Traverse diagonally up and L to join the line of pockets (take some good cams for the pockets). Paul Deacon, Annette Boelman 2/10/96

Mr Ed's Chimney 15m 14
The obvious chimney at the L end of the face. Simon Watson, Lynne Robinson 5/95

*Dabadoo 18m 19
A quality line with good pro R of MEC. The R facing corner, crack, then up and through bulges to top. Paul Deacon, Kieran Culhane, Annette Boelman, Glenn Tempest 2/10/96

*Two Days After the 70's 20m 18
An attractive line, climbed two days after a 70's party to end all 70's parties. The obvious crack R of Dabadoo. Up scoop on intricate jugs, then up where line eases slightly. Finish up wall near bush on some fantastic (but dubious) metallic coated jugs. Damian Auton, Libby Evans 5/95

*Child's Play 20m 19
Another good line. Start 4m R of TDA70s. Follow the crack line (intricate pro) to mantle at ledge. Up, veering R at top. Goshen Watts, Eryne Hali 2/10/96

*Jungle Fever 20m 23
Much better (and harder) than it looks. The prominent crack leading up from a small cave another 4m R of CP. Head up through straggly jungle vine and past cave (you can see right through the buttress here!). Diagonally R and over roof (crux). Keep following crack up and then diagonally L on reasonably solid rock, but be careful of the large precarious triangular block most of the way up. It should stay in place but use it carefully. Kieran Culhane, Goshen Watts 2/10/96

The following climbs are found on the N face of the buttress.

Unnamed 15m 21
Locate the thin right-leaning line 10m from the L end of the N face. Follow the diagonal line to an easier finish. Start is hard to protect. Kirsty Hamilton, Malcolm Matheson 2/10/96

Talca 15m 17
This climb takes wider crack 2m R of Kirsty's Unnamed climb, and traverses into the main line after 5m. Goshen Watts, Eryne Hali 2/10/96