Other Western Areas
 

Mount Gillen

Summary:
Looks good from the road, but on closer inspection becomes a little less inspiring. Loose but otherwise good rock in a nice position overlooking town. Can get VERY hot in all but the coolest weather.

Getting There:
Take Larapinta Drive out of town for about 8km, and park at Flynn's Grave, with Mt Gillan directly above. Take the walking track up the ridge to below the cliff-line.

Rocky Road to Dublin 80m 13
Climb takes the prominent, solitary corner about 500m from the Western end of the cliff where it dips down to form a saddle (descent). The start is (was?) marked by a cairn of rocks. 1) 35m Up above cairn until it is possible to go L to a ledge, below a corner leading to a bush. Climb straight up the groove until you can step R and up onto ledge above the bush. Up groove above to a stance below the overhung block. 2) 45m Continue up groove from ledge on L, to gain broken ground. Up to foot of corner, and follow this to top. Might be best to belay just below the summit and make three pitches. John Griffiths, Helen Griffiths, Keith Seddon 2/6/73


Honeymoon Gap

Summary:
About 15km West of Alice Springs is a piece of choss. Still a bit loose, despite having had quite a few ascents and topropes over time. Nevertheless, being so close to town, it's not a bad place to spend an afternoon, and there's some bouldering on either side of the creek too.

Getting There:
Take Larapinta Drive out of town until you're 100m past the the Simpon's Gap turn off, and turn left to Whitegums Caravan Park, you can see the gap just a few hundred metres down the road.

The climb below is situated just next to (facing) the road, on the Eastern side of the gap.

The Honeymoon is Over 25m 15
Climb the crack, and take the left fork when it splits. The small crack at the top can be climbed or bypased. Finish at the double ring bolts. Pro is fairly good, but watch out for loose rock. RHV (15), climb the right crack where they split. Really there is very little difference between the two climbs. FRA Kieran Culhane, Eryne Hali. 22/10/95

The following climb is on 'Burt Bluff', just W of Honeymoon Gap. To descend, walk down the Eastern end of the cliff.

Sunstroke Gully 43m 5
Easy looking chimney/corner just L of large corner at the Eastern end of the cliff. When it forks, take the L branch. John Griffiths, Helen Griffiths 1/10/72


Half Moon Buttress

Summary:
A striking but small cliff that attracts the eye of many a climber. It is a pity that looks can be a little deceiving, but it is still better than all the other piles of rock (that one is often tempted to stop at) along the way to the real climbing areas.

Getting There:
Situated approximately 62km out from Alice on the road to Glen Helen, and not far past the turnoff from Larapinta Drv. About 200m off the road (on the R), is quite an obvious disk shaped cliff about 30m wide. A faint vehicle track leads up to the cliff if you're lucky enough to find it.

The One, the Only 15m 10
Walk up to the lowest part of the cliff and climb it directly with minimal pro. Kieran Culhane, Eryne Hali 22/10/95


WARNING: Many climbs in Central Australia have loose rock, runouts and bad protection. Exercise extreme caution at all times. Whilst all care has been taken, accuracy of descriptions and gradings, etc. cannot be guaranteed.