Mount
Gillen
Summary:
Looks good from the road, but on closer inspection becomes
a little less inspiring. Loose but otherwise good rock in a nice position
overlooking town. Can get VERY hot in all but the coolest weather.
Getting
There:
Take Larapinta Drive out of town for about 8km, and park
at Flynn's Grave, with Mt Gillan directly above. Take the walking track
up the ridge to below the cliff-line.
Rocky Road to Dublin 80m 13
Climb takes the prominent, solitary corner about 500m from the Western
end of the cliff where it dips down to form a saddle (descent). The start
is (was?) marked by a cairn of rocks. 1) 35m Up above cairn until it is
possible to go L to a ledge, below a corner leading to a bush. Climb straight
up the groove until you can step R and up onto ledge above the bush. Up
groove above to a stance below the overhung block. 2) 45m Continue up
groove from ledge on L, to gain broken ground. Up to foot of corner, and
follow this to top. Might be best to belay just below the summit and make
three pitches. John Griffiths, Helen Griffiths, Keith Seddon 2/6/73
Honeymoon
Gap
Summary:
About 15km West of Alice Springs is a piece of choss. Still
a bit loose, despite having had quite a few ascents and topropes over
time. Nevertheless, being so close to town, it's not a bad place to spend
an afternoon, and there's some bouldering on either side of the creek
too.
Getting
There:
Take Larapinta Drive out of town until you're 100m past the the
Simpon's Gap turn off, and turn left to Whitegums Caravan Park, you can
see the gap just a few hundred metres down the road.
The climb below is situated just next to (facing) the road, on the
Eastern side of the gap.
The Honeymoon is Over 25m 15
Climb the crack, and take the left fork when it splits. The small
crack at the top can be climbed or bypased. Finish at the double ring
bolts. Pro is fairly good, but watch out for loose rock. RHV (15), climb
the right crack where they split. Really there is very little difference
between the two climbs. FRA Kieran Culhane, Eryne Hali. 22/10/95
The following climb is on 'Burt Bluff', just W of Honeymoon Gap. To
descend, walk down the Eastern end of the cliff.
Sunstroke Gully 43m 5
Easy looking chimney/corner just L of large corner at the Eastern end
of the cliff. When it forks, take the L branch. John Griffiths, Helen
Griffiths 1/10/72
Half
Moon Buttress
Summary:
A striking but small cliff that attracts the eye of many
a climber. It is a pity that looks can be a little deceiving, but it is
still better than all the other piles of rock (that one is often tempted
to stop at) along the way to the real climbing areas.
Getting
There:
Situated approximately 62km out from Alice on the road to Glen
Helen, and not far past the turnoff from Larapinta Drv. About 200m off
the road (on the R), is quite an obvious disk shaped cliff about 30m wide.
A faint vehicle track leads up to the cliff if you're lucky enough to
find it.
The One, the Only 15m 10
Walk up to the lowest part of the cliff and climb it directly with minimal
pro. Kieran Culhane, Eryne Hali 22/10/95
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