General Info:
The best developed area of Central Australia, Ormiston provides good quality climbing on steep and deep red rock. The easy access, variety of great easy to moderate routes, and the swimming hole close by, have made this area a local favourite. Most of the rock is solid and will offer great climbing. A wide selection of day and overnight bushwalks exists in the Ormiston area if you need a break from climbing.

Access and Ethics:
The Ormiston area is all part of the West MacDonnell National Park, and is controlled by the rangers at the Ormiston Gorge ranger station. Climbing is banned at all cliffs in the park except for Ormiston Bluff. The region is very important to the Aborigines, and also heavily visited by Tourists. In anycase, before climbing at Ormiston Bluff, please call ahead (08 8956 7799) and let the rangers know you're coming, or at least book into the Rangers Station when you arrive. This will help local climbers relations with the Rangers.

Getting There:
Ormiston is found 132 kilometres from Alice Springs in the MacDonnell Ranges. Drive West on Larapinta Drive to a prominent fork approximately 55 kilometres out of town. Turn right onto Namatjira Drive (it is clearly signposted) and drive out towards Glen Helen Homestead. The turn off to Ormiston Gorge is clearly signposted, 5 kilometres short of GH Homestead.

Classic example of 'N.T. access'. Follow the road in towards the gorge until you are past the grid and the river is directly on your right. Look for a large steep bluff directly on the other side of the river (50m). It is believed that many of these routes were bolted and first climbed by Roark Muhlen-Schulte. Due to difficulties getting any information from Roark, many of the routes have been written up as First Recorded Ascents (FRA).

Eat My Shorts 13m 8
Obvious slightly L trending gully behind huge standing dead tree, 20m from L end of cliff. A small gum tree grows on the L side of the climb three quarters of the way up. Well protected on natural pro. Rap chain is 2m R of the top. FRA, Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane (both solo), 23/7/95.

Liquid Television 14m 10
Start 2m R of EMS. Climb face on natural pro to finish up crack below rap chain. FRA Kieran Culhane, Damian Auton (both solo), 23/7/95.

Spiritual Man 26m 16
Starts 4m R of LT. Climb slab till you can move R and into small corner. Climb corner and cracks to overhang, over this and up. Either belay above or place good directional pro and traverse R and down to chains on Eat Carpet. Steve Thornton, Goshen Watts, 17/3/96.

*Eat Carpet 17m 15
A good juggy climb, but watch out for loose stuff. Start 2m R of SM in L facing corner. Follow seam to bolt on R (just under bulge). Up to piton, then straight up past three bolts to rap chain at top. FRA Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane, 23/7/95.

Chops 20m 18
Poor pro to start, but top overhang is better than it looks. Start as for Old Favourite but take main diagonal, L leaning corner-crack. Up to roof on L and over this to big corner. Either belay above or place good directional and traverse R and down to chains on Old Favourite. Goshen Watts, Steve Thornton, 26/1/96.

Allison 18m 18
Eats small wires and has a heinous top overhang (really Steve?). As for Old Favourite up to first bolt, don't clip but step L and up into corner. Over roof above to belay as for OF. Steve Thornton, Goshen Watts, 27/1/96.

*Old Favourite 18m 21
A really nice line with some balance moves. Start 5m R of EC at gum tree. Up past two small ledges to FH in scoop. Then balance R and up (staying close to arete) past another FH. At top move past large loose blocks to rap chain. FRA Kieran Culhane, Damian Auton, 29/4/95.

No Permit Required! 18m 16
A serious lead for the grade due to the sparse (and small) pro. Start 2m R of OF, directly below visible ghost gum at top of cliff. Straight up thin seam protected by very small wires and RP's to a choice of rap chains. Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane, Libby Evans, 23/7/95.

*Step Right Up 20m 20
Nice technical crux down low, with easier but intimidating climbing up higher. Start 6m R OF. Climb crack for 4m to corner and then past two bolts to ledge. Step R onto face, and crank up past three bolts. Look for the rap chain on your R. FRA Kieran Culhane, Damian Auton, 29/4/95.

*Fourth Time Lucky 20m 21
The story goes that an aspiring ascentionist took three large falls (while clipping) from the high crux, with each successive fall getting closer to the ground until his feet touched the ground on the third (and last) fall. He gave up a nervous, exhausted wreck and never tried the climb again. Don't let that put you off though, the climbing is actually quite enjoyable and well protected, but does have a slight sting in the tail. Start 1m R of SRU on arete. Move up just R of arete past three bolts, then past FH to another bolt. Finish at rap chain. FRA Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane, 23/7/95.

*Ant Carrots 23m 16
Start 3m R of FTL at small bush. Scramble through bush to follow crack up through small overhang. Careful at top as you climb past huge loose blocks on your R. Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane, 23/7/95.

*Buy Locally 23m 17
Nice face climbing, tough for the grade. Start as for AC. Up 3m then step R onto ledge. Up to BR then FH and run it out to the top (exciting!) or fiddle in some small wires. FRA Kieran Culhane, Damian Auton, 23/7/95.

*The Vibraphone 22m 17
A fun line worth doing, (if only it was as much fun as playing the vibraphone). A good line that for some reason has been ignored over the years. Start 3m R of BL near two ghost gums. Straight up crack past jagged holds down low. Simon Mentz, Roark Muhlen-Schulte, 6/92.

*Join the Q 20m 16
Glenn somehow managed to take some time off from snapping photos to put this one up. Start 5m R of BL. Up crack past small broken tree on ledge and up into R facing corner. When crack runs out, undercling R for 1m to next crack then continue up. Glenn Tempest, Rhyl Shaw, Libby Evans, Michael Hampton, John Dickson, 29/4/95.

*Just Adobe (No Ryobi) 20m 18
A good climb with good pro. Wall and crack 4m R of JQ. Mantle into shallow cave and follow straight up the crack. Originally done with a small variant to avoid the bulge and poor pro, it has now been cleaned and now provides decent pro. Michael Hampton, Glenn Tempest, Rhyl Shaw, Libby Evans, John Dickson, 29/4/95.

Oedipus Shmoedipus 20m 19
A nice line, not as loose as it looks. Gear almost non-existant. 4m R of JA(NR). Up through very shallow scoop to flakes. Up to L trending flakes to finish directly through small overhang at the top. FTRA Goshen Watts, Kieran Culhane, 22/9/96.

*No Cam Do 20m 13
Take some of big pro. Ledges 3m R of major L facing corner-crack to obvious cracks directly below ghost gum. Up past gum (handy jug, if you're game) to belay. Many people climb on to the top and belay from there. FTRA Rhyl Shaw 29/4/95. FRA Steve Thornton, Allison Garrett 15/8/95.

*Sickle 25m 16
Large crack at the left end of the main buttress in the centre of the crag (6m R of NCD). Up crack for 5 m and through overhang. Continue up on an easier angle until under main (higher) roof, traverse R under it and continue up to top past manky FH. FRA Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane 28/4/95.

*Rock Shot 18m 20
Start as for Sickle. Once above first overhang move R (ignore low piton) to FH. Up past two BRs to rap chain. FRA Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane (onsight) 29/4/95.

Rock Shot (Direct Start) 18m 23
A bold lead - a classic way to start the climb. Starts just R of RS in the obvious L facing corner. Climb to roof, then traverse out R (passing bird nests) to undercling. Pumpy traverse out the lip of the overhang, then cutloose and strenously L and up to manky ring piton (clip for history's sake if for no other reason) to join RS. Malcolm Matheson, Chris Peisker, Paul Deacon, Kieran Culhane, Damian Auton 28/8/96.

*Wham, Bam, Thankyou Jam 20m 18
Takes the prominent hand crack facing the road and in the middle of the buttress. Climb the short wall, step L at the overhang and continue up crack. Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton, Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane 29/4/95.

*If You Don't Mind Umpire 20m 22
Placing pro onsight makes this a tricky climb - double ropes would help. Start as for WBTJ for 5m to thin horizontal cracks. Step L and climb up L of large block until you can stand on it and rest. Traverse L under roof then crank through the middle and straight up face past loose block (solid) to top overhang. Clip the last bolt on Rock Shot then move back right to finish just R of chain. Ronnie Sammut, Simon Mentz (onsight) 28/9/96.

Weatherbee 20m 19
Very suspect pro for the crux but you can climb up L and place a high runner if you're on double ropes (advisable). Start as for WBTJ. Up crack to big block, then crank to the precarious horizontal flake (# 1 SLCD above). Continue past small rooflets and curved crack, keeping L of corner to finish through middle of top roof (L of crack). Goshen Watts, Damian Auton 28/9/96.

*The Immortifier 22m 22
First moves are sustained and pumpy to protect. Step L off block 3m R of WBTJ and up thin cracks to roofs and good holds. Up to ledges and easy cracks, finishing through top overhang to belay. Goshen Watts, Steve Thornton, Damian Auton 3/2/96.

*The Nose 18m 24
Start 1m R of TI under the prominent nose of rock that sticks out. Move off block onto initial slippery cracks. Climb overhang and up to rest. Brilliant moves lead up the nose. Small wires can be found on the L side of the lip of the nose. Gear was pre-placed for FA. Goshen Watts, Damian Auton, Glen Tempest 28/9/96.

True Story 20m 18
Follows R leaning diagonal crack behind tallest ghost gum on R side of cliff (15m R of WBTJ). Climb small unprotectable face onto large ledge, then take thin seam heading diagonally up R to base of large rectangular stacked blocks. Step L or straight up through rooflet and then scramble to top. Steve Thornton, Eryne Hali 9/6/96.

*Short 'N' Sharp 8m 19
The name says it all. 5m R of True Story (2m R of first tree R of the main buttress). Climb corner then up to and over small roof on its L. Goshen Watts, Steve Thornton. 24/2/96.

Boom Boom 10m 15
Starts 3m R of SNS. Tricky moves up overhanging crack to ledge, then easy white face above. Steve Thornton, Goshen Watts. 17/3/96.

*Astro Chicken 10m 20
Main line on the small buttress R of the main cliff. Climb overhang (there's a good nut placement in behind small chockstone), and up to stance. Follow R curving crack to cave, then over roof to mantle any way you can (don't escape L of R!). Goshen Watts, Steve Thornton 17/3/96.

Peanuts 10m 14
4m R of AC. Follow obvious crack directly below off-width roof jam. Steve Thornton, Eryne Hali 9/6/96.

Old Man's Boots 6m 11
Starts 1m R of Peanuts and climbs thin R leaning cracks to a harder finish just R of cave/roof. Goshen Watts (solo) 10/3/96.

*Old Man's Hat 6m 17
Looks a cinch. Starts 3m R of OMB (1m L of second main gun tree).
Subtract a grade if you're tall. Climb thin L curving crack that finishes ever too soon at same ledge as Old Man's Boots. Steve Thornton, Goshen Watts 24/2/96.

If you thought the last few climbs were not particularly inspiring, the following six climbs are stretching the point, and not the rope.

Possi 5m 16
Climb thin crack directly behind ghost gum (1m R of OMH). Steve Thornton, Eryne Hali 9/6/96.

Breath Easy 8m 11
Starts 1m R of Possi. Climb fist sized crack, the move R onto juggy face and up. Steve Thornton, Eryne Hali 9/6/96.

Audacious 6m 15
Starts 3m R of BE in middle of face. Follow thin seam to overhanging face, then jugs and top. Steve Thornton, Eryne Hali 10/6/96.

If The Shoe Fits... 8m 15
Starts 2m R of Audacious in small recess. Climb jugs to ledge, then take L crack and up. Eryne Hali, Steve Thornton 10/6/96.

Bushfire 8m 8
Start as for ITSF. Climb jugs to ledge on R, then follow R trending crack through terraced face. Eryne Hali, Steve Thornton 9/6/96.

*Crunchy Steak 8m 8
An all-time fucking classic!! Starts 2m R of Bushfire. Climb R leaning flaring crack to juggy face then continue to belay stance. Eryne Hali, Steve Thornton 9/6/96.

Tjilka Bluff (Closed)

Climbing is banned at this steep limestone wall. Located across the river (L) just before you get to Ormiston Bluff.

Ormiston Gorge (Closed)

As you walk into the main Gorge, any climber would be gobsmacked by the view. 300m of easy angled quality rock (looks better the further you are away), with a brilliant setting just waiting for an epic adventure. Don't get too excited though, you can't climb it. In fact you can't climb anywhere in the gorge, but before the climbing was banned (officially), the following two climbs were put up, and are described here for historical interest.

Daddy Longlegs 20m 23
Scary, but great route in a great position. Certainly the finest route Damian managed to complete during his time in Central Oz. Walk up the gorge until you meet the N end of the 'Ghost Gum Walk' (where it meets the gorge on the L). Directly opposite on the R (E) side of gorge is a polished face. Climb to and the up L-trending crack, then up arete to rest on ledge. Traverse R to another crack, then up to steep finish. Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane, Glenn Tempest 30/4/95.

Soap 'N Sleazin 18m 22
A nice line Trumpet managed to put up between photo shoots. Starts 6m R of DL. Follows L trending crack to where it joins the last 6m of that climb. Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton 30/4/95.