Sunset
Bluff
This is the closest part of the cliff to Sunset Camp. Walk up the
scree slope at the NE corner of the mount. At very top of the scree slope
there are some obvious high walls with large corners. The most obvious
corner is Herbert's Way and climbs are described in reference to this.
Decent is a scramble down Central Gully - facing the cliff, this is the
gully around the corner to the L and a repeater station exists for Curtain
Springs, and makes a good landmark for the way down.
Note: An unnamed climb was put up in 1989 by Rick White, Doug Scott
and Sharu Prabhu. It may be an early ascent of Herbert's Way, but the
original description published in Rock magazine is worthless: "90m
19, Obvious corner at the R end of main face. Two pitches of varied crack,
corner and face climbing
" and has been ignored, given the extent
of the cliff and the vagueness of the description.
All Along the Choss Tower 70m 18
A wandering line that climbs some of the worst rock imaginable -
absolute garbage. 1) 35m (12) Climb R facing corner approx 20m L of Herberts
Way. Up steeply, then follow line to ledge at 18m. Traverse L across the
rubble to belay on arete. 2) 35m (crux) Up easy ground to large terrace.
From small cave at foot of corner head diagonally L up horribly loose
L wall to finish at ledge. An easy walk leads to decent gully (Central
Gully). Simon Mentz, Ronnie Sammut (alt) 4/10/96
Herbert's Way 85m 15
Lots of loose rock and a scary lead (like most routes on this cliff).
The obvious corner and main line of the cliff - you can pick it out from
the campsite below. 1) 20m Take the obvious chimney crack L of the Main
corner with the detached buttress. Up to belay in cave with long horizontal
break extending L from it. 2) 20m Straight up crack to belay in corner.
3) 45m Continue up cornercrack to top. Michael Herro, Fred Dubose, Collin
Rowland 17/1/96
Herbert's Way (2nd Pitch Variant) 85m 15
Technically easier for the grade, but the seriousness of the loose
rock keeps the grade up. 1) 20m As for HW. 2) 20m From cave climb diagonally
up and L to the R of a line of three caves. Now diagonally R along a ramp,
back towards main corner. 3) 45m As for HW. Chris Peisker, Roxanne Wells
(alt) 4/10/96
*Slow Motion 48m 18
Surprisingly quality route, with good pro and decent rock. First
climbed in 38deg heat (hence the name). From HW, scramble R along ledges
and under overhangs, around semi-detached buttress to a solid looking
inset face. Done in one pitch, the route follows the lovely finger cracks
in the middle of the wall. Climb through small black cave, with friable
rock to start, but don't worry it gets heaps better. Lots of rock was
thrown off during the first ascent, but you'll still come across some
loose stuff. Kieran Culhane, Michael Hampton, Glenn Tempest 4/10/96
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