Summary:
Kings Canyon is a tourist attraction of high importance in Central Australia, and is the second most popular attraction after Uluru / Kata Juta National Park. Climbing in the spectacular main canyon is not allowed, but negotiations with the rangers in 1996 allowed climbing in the area of 'Red Rocks' which offers excellent climbing on rock that is fairly soft, but still quite solid. Texture much like the Grampians (Vic), with a hardened veneer type finish. Huge potential for new routes.

Access and Ethics:
While the gorge itself is an important area, the cliffs surrounding do not attract the same sensitivity to activities like climbing. Indeed there are stories of the local Rangers using chizels and hammers to remove stuck protection from abseiling training walls. After negotiations (and much ass-licking) with the local rangers, permission was obtained for climbing on the walls around 'Red Rocks'.

Also, dozens of overhanging cliffs exist, that would make most sport climbers drool, many much like 'The Gallery' in the Grampians, Vic. Note that while climbing has been allowed in the area, bolting has not! Any attempts at bolting should be negotiated with the rangers first.

Getting There:
Any map of the area will easily get you to Kings Canyon. From Alice Springs take the Stuart Hwy South for 200km to Erldunda. Turn R (West) onto the Lasseter Hwy and follow this all the way to the Kings Canyon Resort (camping available with facilities). Drive to the Gorge, and park at the main carpark to access the climbing in the area.

Notes:
While climbing in the main canyon itself has been banned, two routes have been put up there, and are described here briefly for the sake of history:
Clapped 20, Two pitch route with a steep offwidth crack on the second. Crack and corner section on the L wall of the canyon, about halfway up the gorge. Rick White, Doug Scott, Sharu Prabhu 1989
Clapped Out 20M1, 30m L of Clapped and 10m L of searing offwidth crack. 1) Face climbing to terrace 2) Thin, overhanging crack and corner with v-groove exit. Rests and aid were used. Rick White, Doug Scott, Sharu Prabhu 1989

Red Rocks

Red Rocks offers some striking face and crack climbing on reasonably solid rock, and spectacular surroundings. It is well worth a visit, and has plenty of room for further development in the future. From the SE corner of the car park, look up and R of the 'Rim' walking track. Look for the obvious and smooth NW facing walls high up the valley, some capped by huge blocks. Cross over the creek and wind your way up side of hill, past the spinifex to the cliffs. A pleasant walk that looks further than it is.

The following three climbs are on obvious Shield.

*Rude Boys 20m 19
Really nice climbing with good pro. If you face the Shield and walk L to the end of the cliff, you will find a short narrow corridor formed by a detached block and the main. Walk through the narrow corridor to an obvious crack on your R. Follow crack all the way. It heads up diagonally L then turns and heads straight up. One of the 'boys' in the large group had staked his claim on the route in the same fashion as a dog would. The girls weren't impressed. Kirsty Hamilton, Jane Wilkinson, Kieran Culhane 7/10/96

*Exile And The Kingdom 20m 20
A classic line up the L side of the obvious Shield. Top face has poor pro and some gear was placed from abseil. Towards the L end of the shield is a large overhang. Walk around and up to this. The climb starts at a small bonsai fig as far R as you can go along the ledge. Up overhanging cracks and jugs, then traverse a little R. Up to belay on big ledge. Goshen Watts, Michael Hampton, Mick Jaeger 9/10/96.

*The Viking 35m 22
Serious but classic climbing up the R side of the obvious Shield. Probably technically a 21 but seriousness bumps up the grade. Heaps of pro, but not much of it any good! Rap inspected for FA. Up small scooped corner to ledge. Tricky moves on poor pro lead to imposing headwall (protected with a 6mm thread and small wires). Run it out to finish, just R of roof. Goshen Watts, Paul Deacon, Michael Hampton, Damien Auton 8/10/96

The following three climbs are on Red Wall, the huge wall capped by huge block R of the Shield.

Hey Kutie! 12m 15
Starts 4m L of Every Day has his Dog. Climb the R trending diagonal crack, then directly up face when crack ends. Paul Deacon 8/10/96. Variant finish: Continue up crack at top. Kirsty Hamilton, Jane Wilkinson 9/10/96

Every Day has his Dog 15m 23
Pumpy. Start on top of the L end of the massive detached block. Step onto crack (or climb direct), and follow through scoop and horizontals. Finish up easier cracks, keeping L. Ronnie Sammut, Goshen Watts 8/10/96. FFA Chris Peisker 8/10/96

*The Odwalla Express 25m 21
Interesting architecture and great moves, marred slightly by poor protection at the start. Tackles the attractive orangey / brown wall just R of giant detached block. Pull onto the wall and climb a giant detached flake. Take cams and a sling for the top of the flake. From the top of the flake, traverse L and pull onto small hanging slab. Up the line, moving R onto ledge at half height. Seam, then finish through prominent curving crack. Simon Mentz, Ronnie Sammut, Michael Hampton 8/10/96. Variant (21), Mick Jaeger 9/10/96

Another route was put up at the same time by Simon Mentz, but FA details are unknown, the climb ascends the buttress on the gorge to the E of the Red Rocks canyon.