Taree
Cliff
Taree Cliff is the main S facing wall on the W side of the gap. Most
of the climbs described are reprinted from the 1973 guide, and their exact
locations have not been verified.
The following climb is located on Taree Cliff, but it's location relative
to the other climbs is unknown. From the carpark, locate the big flake
about 200m L (W) of gap.
Enigma 40m 15
Nice but escapable. Walk to the base of the flake, at L leaning ramps
and tree. Thin crack 3m R of ramp. Hard start can be avoided by traversing
in from L. Climb face all the way, veering L before big flake. Along flake,
then straight up and over to shallow corner. Scramble off L or R. Goshen
Watts, Steve Thornton 21/1/96
The following climbs are reprinted from the 1973 guide. The climbs
start at the L end of the cliff, before you get to the large boulder stewn
scree slope.
Presto 30m 6
The R hand of two gullies, just above ramp, and L of corner. Keith
Seddon, Helen Griffiths 24/6/73
Mutation 32m 13
Good climbing up the corner R of Presto. Up to spike (beware of loose
rock), continue up corner to top. John Griffiths, Keith Seddon 24/6/73
Reveille 49m 11
Locate large tree, 30m up and L of black slab at L end of wall. Scramble
up to crack 10m above tree. 1) 35m L diagonal crack, then short ramp on
R to slanting corner. Diagonally L under this to a ledge. 2) 14m Crack
at the R side of slab, through break and L around bulge to top. John Griffiths,
Keith Seddon, Helen Griffiths 24/6/73
Arboreal Tactics 20m 6
Corner at R edge of slab to narrow chimney. Up to tree and ledge.
John Griffiths, Helen Griffiths, Keith Seddon, 8/4/73
Natural Selection 40m 10
1) 23m Wide corner-crack R of AT, up to large ledge on R. Continue
up smooth corner to another large ledge. 2) 17m Up line until it is possible
to go R and around onto exposed face, finishing up v-groove. Keith Seddon,
John Griffiths 17/2/73
Origin of the Species 37m 6
Corner R of NS to where it narrows, finishing up the tight chimney.
John Griffiths, Keith Seddon 11/3/73
Evolution 38m 8
Obvious chimney splitting the centre of slab R of OS. 1) 12m Crack
to ledge. 2) 26m Chimney to top. John Griffiths, Helen Griffiths 31/12/72
Debut 39m ??
1) 12m As for Evolution. 2) 27m From R hand end of ledge, climb crack
until it is possible to move into gully to the L. Belay. Keith Seddon,
Pat Russell 28/4/73
Genesis 10m 15
Crack in the smooth slab R of Debut, directly to tree. John Griffiths,
Keith Seddon 18/3/73
Primate 57m 8
Start at shattered groove, 2m R of prominent crack R of Genesis's
slab. 1) 13m Groove to the junction with the crack at overhang. Traverse
L to belay on bushy ledge. 2) 44m Slab above, moving L when the holds
start to thin. Up groove on R, to easier ground below the obvious hanging
block. Up corner-crack to the top. Keith Seddon, John Griffiths 18/3/73
Procreation 43m 10
Prominent crack that the start of Primate avoids. When necessary,
step R onto wall. Up into the crack again which is followed up to a ledge.
Belay here, or scramble up the L crack of three short cracks above. John
Griffiths, Helen Griffiths, Keith Seddon 8/4/73
Valgus 63m 13
Scramble up gully R of Procreation for about 30m (up behind fig tree).
1) 25m Easily up L gully to below a black slab. Belay on slab, or in R
gully. 2) 30m Continue up L gully until it steepens. Up crack to below
overhang. Traverse L around this to a stance. 3) 8m Scramble to top. John
Griffiths, Helen Griffiths, Keith Seddon 12/8/73
Deviations 37m 6
Starts as for Valgus, taking the R hand gully. Climb up under the
large chockstone, then straight up chimney to top. Keith Seddon, Helen
Griffiths, John Griffiths 28/4/73
The Web 35m 9
At R (Eastern) end of Taree cliff are two cracks, both leading to
a large chockstone. 1) 12m Climb slab below bush, L of chockstone. Veer
around bush then back L to the wide L crack, up this, and belay below
chimney. 2) 23m Chimney-crack to ledge, finish up curving crack. John
Griffiths, Helen Griffiths, Keith Seddon 12/8/73
Spider Crack 83m 8
The sister crack, 3m R of TW. 1) 43m Up slab on R to ledge above
chockstone. Up and though 'overhang', following crack up to a small stance.
2) 40m Step R and up slab to ridge, following this up L to a small white
corner. Up corner, then R to belay. John Griffiths, Keith Seddon 10/2/73
Witchetty
Cliff
The S facing cliff to the E of the river, opposite car park.
Shady Lane 67m 11
Starts by the tree in the gully opposite car park. Be warned of poor
pro and loose rock. 1) 40m From slab on L side of gully climb corner about
3m down from the tree. Follow corner to where it steepens, up short wall
to a small ledge. Up slab bounded by wide crack on R, then groove to poor
belay at stance. 2) 27m Traverse L across easy slab to far edge. Make
an exposed move around this to gain easy ridge and belay. John Griffiths,
Keith Seddon 10/2/73
The
Precipice
Walk through the gap onto the N facing side of the range. The Precipice
is on the L (W) side.
Zebedee 87m 9
Starts at line, halfway along the cliff. Marked by a small cairn.
1) 47m Up for 3m, then diagonally R, then L for 5m and up to white slab.
Traverse R and up to grassy ledge. 2) 6m Up easily to belay below large
corner. 3) 34m Easily up corner to top. John Griffiths, Helen Griffiths
28/4/73
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