Heavytree Quarry
Distance from Alice Springs: 5km East
Walking time: 5-10 mins
Climbing: Moderate to Difficult
Shade: Morning - till 10am

Summary:
A great sport cliff close to town that offers short, steep and pumpy sandstone routes, equipped with natural and bolt protection. Despite its namesake, the cliff is a natural one, and not the result of quarrying. The sun comes early to this cliff (as early as 10am) so unless you like early starts this one should be left for the winter months. Most routes are graded between 18 & 24, offering a good pump for competent climbers.

Access and Ethics:
The Quarry cliffs is rumoured to be a sacred site, but this is unconfirmed, and no-one has ever minded people climbing there.

Getting There:
From Alice Springs, follow the Sth Stuart Hwy through Heavitree Gap. Take the first turn L, then drive past several caravan parks to a roundabout. Turn L down Ragonesi Rd, and follow this to the end. Turn L into Quarry Rd, and continue until you reach the gate to the quarry. The cliff is up on the right.

Notes:
Many routes on the Main Face were bolted (and probably climbed) by Roark Muhlen-Shultz years ago, however the climbs were not recorded until recently, and are First Recorded Ascents only.


Country and Western Wall

The following routes are on a short wall about 200m back up the road (before you get to the main face). Park just where the Powerline finishes, and walk straight up scree. The climbs start from a small, flat ledge high up on the scree slope. Climbs listed L to R.

Below and about 30m L of the climbs listed is a small crag with a line that has been climbed at grade 12.

Western Sunshine 7m 14
R leaning double diagonal cracks on the L side of the terrace. Sam Latz, Goshen Watts 18/6/00

Smilin' Coyote 6m 16
Starts about 4m R of crack above. Climb weakness then veer L and straight up wall to an easy finish. Goshen Watts, Sam Latz 18/6/00

Country Connection 6m 15
Starts as for Smilin ' Coyote. Climb line direct, taking care of loose rock. Sam Latz, Goshen Watts 18/6/00

Buffalo Soldiers 8m 20
Starts at R end of wall, just at the chimney descent. Short and strenuous crack leads to easier climbing. Goshen Watts, Sam Latz 18/6/00

Main Face

Walk up the scree slope. On the way up to the Main Face (and nearer to the road) are some good boulders to warm up/down on.

The cliff on the L has been recently developed, but no information or FA details are available from the locals at all.

Scrap Metal 10m 15
L most climb on wall. One BR. FRA Kieran Culhane 8/8/95

Lord of the D-Shackles 12m 21
Can be entirely naturally protected (22). Steep crack behind tree 6m R of SM. Four ugly BR's and dodgy single BB. FRA Kieran Culhane 8/8/95

Who the Fuck is Alice? 13m 20
First major L leading crack 10m R of LDS. Strenuous start up overhanging corner, then mantle onto ledge where easier climbing awaits. Kieran Culhane 13/8/95
Variant start (13) avoid corner, and ascends ramp to the R, to join the line.

Hyerba Burger 14m 18
Ramp 5m R of WFA to L leading diagonal crack (next crack R of WFA). Kieran Culhane, Jo Isgro, Nick Isgro 13/8/95

Just L of Superstring is 3 or 4 FH's marking a new climb, rumoured to be put up by Malcolm Matheson, at about grade 24 / 25. Exact details unknown.

*Superstring 15m 24
Start 3m L of First Temptation. Up wall BR, FH, then R along diagonal rooflet 2FH, DBB. FRA Goshen Watts 30/3/96

*First Temptation 15m 22
Start at two shallow cracks in the center of the wall, with a BR at arms stretch. Good climbing past 3 FH to finish up large crack. DBB. FRA Kieran Culhane 28/4/95

*Left Foot Screaming 15m 19
Up the L tending crack R of FT. Up to bolt, then smear like a demon through the crux. Continue up line to DBB. FRA Damian Auton, Kieran Culhane 19/8/95

About 5m R of LFS is a L leading diagonal ramp/corner. About a grade 14; FA details unknown.


WARNING: Many climbs in Central Australia have loose rock, runouts and bad protection. Exercise extreme caution at all times. Whilst all care has been taken, accuracy of descriptions and gradings, etc. cannot be guaranteed.