Summary:
A long neglected area that offers some of the finest moderate routes the Territory has to offer. It combines great climbing on quality routes, a great waterhole, some beautiful scenery from the top of the crag, and best of all, a bar and pool table within staggering distance. What more could you want?

Despite some of the atrocious cliff and route names, the area does offer some inspiring climbing, in a relaxed and scenic setting. The rock is generally very good, although some loose rock may still be encountered. The area is split into seven main regions and some ascents may have been done on the S side of the range, W of the waterhole, but FA details are unknown. Areas described as you would approach them when walking round the waterhole, with the N facing cliffs described first.

The River that flows through the gap is the Finke River, one of the oldest river systems in the world. Evidence suggesting it may be more than 100 million years old. On average the river flows once a year, but at times it may not flow for a number of years. In 1988 the river flooded for what is believed to be the biggest flood in the last 500 years. Just where exactly the river terminates and unloads its water had always been a riddle - until the floods of '88. It was discovered that the river flows into the Simpson Desert and dissipates the water across a vast area. According to Aboriginal legend, a giant watersnake lives in the pool, but don't let this deter you - it's a great place to swim.

Access and Ethics:
Most people think the cliffs are on land owned by the Homestead, but in fact they are within the West MacDonnell National Park. The Homestead is on a parcel of land portioned off from the National Park. The rangers would appreciate it if you call them on (08) 8956 7799 before you wish to climb, or at least, drop in and see them at the Ormiston Ranger Station. The area is certainly culturally significant, so no bolting is allowed.

Getting There:
Easily reached on sealed road by driving W on Larapinta Drive to a prominent fork approximately 55 kilometres out of town. Turn R on Namatjira Drive (it is clearly signposted) and following the signposts to Glen Helen Homestead. The cliffs are obvious and there is climbing on both sides of the range, and on either side of the waterhole.

Vic Wall

This wall is part of the obvious cliff as seen from the homestead balcony. It is rumored that Roark Muchlen-Schulte put up a climb on the large wall straight across from the back verandah. When you're relaxing there with a drink in your hand, gaze across and evaluate the sense of this.

Faces N and is on the W side of the waterhole. It is hard to believe that it was untouched by climbers for 23 years after the ascent of Scorpion in 1973. The following two climbs are found down near the waterhole, on somewhat more solid rock. A faint steep track leads up and W from the waterhole, and goes all the way to the top of the ridge. The climbs start from this 'track'.

Scorpian 22m 8
Chimney 80m R (W) of waterhole, climbing behind of, then in front of where it narrows. Up to the chockstone to finish. John Griffiths, Helen Griffiths, Keith Seddon 8/7/73

Northern Exposure 15m 17
Further R of Scorpian, just before the track reaches the top of the cliff. Excellent climbing up prominent thin crack. Glenn Tempest, Rhyl Shaw, Michael Hampton 2/5/95

Siege Wall

A great selection of naturally protected lines on reasonable, but sometimes loose rock. How could such a cliff have been ignored by so many for so long? Siege Wall faces N on the L (E) side of the waterhole. To reach the start of the climbs, walk up short screeslope from the waterhole to where the cliff breaks down. The name 'Siege Wall' has nothing to do with the tactics used on the first ascents - it is in reference to the fact that after being ignored for so long, a storm of Victorians and a handful of Territorians went wild after a few beers at the homestead.

*Unnamed 40m 20
Starts 4m L of Freak Street. Up crack to shallow cave at top L of white 'choss-patch'. Continue through bulge to finish up crack. Malcolm Matheson, Kirsty Hamilton 30/9/96

Malcolm partially cleaned the overhanging crack line L of his unnamed climb. It needs further cleaning, but should go at approximately 22 with good protection.

*Freak Street 40m 22
Good face climbing in a proud position, with sections of suss rock to keep you on your toes. Technically closer to grade 20. In true Simon Mentz style he was heard to be gibbering foul curses to all and sundry while on the loose rock and a minute later was proclaiming it to be 'fantastic'. Start at R leading weakness about 12m L of first ghost gum, about 30m L of waterhole. Up the diagonal crack which leads into shitty rock. Up (staying just L of the crack to avoid the worst rock) then continue on good rock and good protection. Step R and run it out up the wall to a good rest just below some dubious blocks. Move R and weave up the poorly protected but easy wall to the top. Simon Mentz, Ronnie Sammut (onsight) 30/9/96

*Euro-dice 40m 19
The line of the cliff, 5m L of ghost gum. Named in part due to a likeness with the climb Euridices at Mt Arapiles. R trending crack to ledge then follow crack trending L to the top. Good pro, solid rock, and great climbing. First climbed in two pitches. Damian Auton, Goshen Watts, Glenn Tempest 30/9/96

*Fester and Chester Retire To The Bar 40m 18
The prominent crack behind the first large ghost gum, 15m L of the waterhole. Smooth slabby wall for 3m and follow curved crack to a small cave below a large block. Step R and up out of the cave to gain stance below another large bulge. Move back L and up, into main crack line. Follow crack, past some loose blocks to good ledge. Surprisingly good climbing follows the main crack diagonally R. First climbed in two pitches. Kieran Culhane (Uncle Fester), Michael Hampton (Uncle Chester) 30/9/96

Slabia Minge Nora 50m 17
Good fun. 1) 25m Centre of slab (poor pro) just L of easy chimney. Move R at the bulge (crux) to join Birkenstock Chimney. 2) 25m Chimney for 5m, R up hanging slab to nose, then up to blocks. Bruce Cameron, Lincoln Hall 16/11/96

The crack line L of SMN that heads steeply up and then turns L to follow through the roof has been tried unsuccessfully by Lincoln Hall, and still awaits a first ascent.

Birkenstock Chimney 30m 8
The obvious chimney just L (E) of the waterhole. Traverse diagonally R up high to gain top of cliff. First climbed in Birkenstock sandals. Paul Deacon (solo) 30/9/96

Minge Wall

Minge Wall faces the water on the Eastern side of the waterhole. It offers many nice lines in close proximity to each other. The climbs here are steeper and harder than they look, and usually slippery down low. It is generally pretty shaded up until after lunch. If you're at the very R end of Siege Wall (near the waterhole) you can walk further R around the corner and belay just next to the water. You can walk off as for Siege Wall, or rap down Dingo Dogs, although be wary of the old sling anchor it's probably been in the sun a long time.

*The Furnace 27m 23
A nice line with good pro and desperate moves. First climbed in 42 degree heat. Start 3m from the L end of Minge Wall at the obvious roof crack. 1) 17m (crux) Crack and L through roof. Nice climbing up easier ground to belay. 2) 10m Easy scrambling to top. Mark Baker, Gilbert Meunier (onsight) 16/11/96

*Ho Chi Minge City 30m 20
More overhanging than it looks, this climb goes a lot further than where you can see. Start 5m R of TF (just R of a tiny bay where the water comes closer to the cliff). Starting on the small arete move L and up the wall to flakes. Continue up overhanging layback flakes to bulge. Placing gear before the bulge might be a good idea, as it's quite loose above. Belay in the recess and scramble easily to top. On the FA a TV-sized block dislodged from the top of the flakes and plummeted to land in the water. Kieran Culhane, Eryne Hali (onsight) 16/11/96

*Dingo Dogs 20m 17
Great fun - better than it looks. Start 4m R of HCMC at the thin crack splitting the wall of red coloured rock. Up the crack, heading L to R-facing corner and hence to top. Robert McMahon, Bruce Cameron, Chris Jackson, Gilbert Meunier, Mark Baker 15/11/96

*Desert Storm 20m 18
3m R of DD. Follow flakes up polished wall passing a narrow diagonal slot up high. Gilbert Meunier, Mark Baker, Bob McMahon, Chris Jackson 15/11/96

No Whinge About the Minge 25m 19
Harder than it looks. Start 2m R of DS on the skyline with a refrigerator sized block at the bulge. Up wall and over bulge (crux). Continue up wall and crack to top. Bruce Cameron, Robert McMahon 15/11/96

A Tinge of Minge 25m 18
Interesting and varied climbing. Obvious square chimney with roof above pool, 4m R of NWAM. Up the chimney and over roof to continue up the crack. Bruce Cameron, Chris Jackson, Robert McMahon 15/11/96

Bats Over Botswana 25m 19
Exciting climbing on excellent protection. The L line in the open square gully 6m R of ATM. Up cracks to roof crack, over this to top. Mark Baker, Gilbert Meunier 15/11/96

Too Hot to Trot 28m 17
More nice climbing. Move 7m R of BOB to small fig tree above pool. Up polished rock to fig tree, over bulge, then up cracks and wall to top. Lincoln Hall, Bruce Cameron 16/11/96

Chopper Wall

This and the following walls are on the S side of the range. You need to scramble around the waterhole on the W side. Ussually quite easy, the traverse is more difficult if the waters are high.

To get to Chopper Wall, walk all the way around to the E side of the waterhole to where the cliffs meet the water. Beware low flying tourist helicopters.

Apocalypse Now 20m 18
Fine finger crack L of flake high on first cliff above the waterhole. Finish L. Andrei Cleland, Andrew Drenen 9/7/91

*Blue Thunder 25m 16
Nice climb in a scenic setting. Start 7m R of water's edge where a stunted gum grows from the base of the crack. Easy crack up to a small rooflet, then follow crack up to prominent v-shaped gash. To get off the top you can scramble up the gully behind the cliff and walk down via the main gully, or belay a reasonably easy traverse across R to the ledges below vomit wall. Andrew Drenen, Andrei Cleland 10/7/91

Piss Wall

Piss Wall is situated high up in the gully behind (N) of Chopper Wall. It faces S and is on the E side of the waterhole. Best reached by climbing Blue Thunder and walking around the grassy ledge to the base. Who knows what the first ascentionists did to give the wall such an dreadful name.

Golden Shower 22m 23
Nice face climbing. Avoid loose blocks, then step L at 4m and up face. Andrew Drenen, Andrei Cleland 10/7/91

Bridge Over Troubled Piss 20m 16
Up R trending line 1m R of GS. Past loose blocks to large hanging bush and up arete on L. Andrei Cleland, Andrew Drenen 10/7/91

Don't Piss in My Waterhole 22m 21
Up L leading finger crack from small roof 10m R of BOTP to a rest. Up face, finishing R. Andrew Drenen, Andrei Cleland 10/7/91

Vomit Wall

This wall probably offers the best selection of naturally protected climbs in the area, with many of the routes on surprisingly solid rock, despite the another dreadful cliff name (a big night on the grog in the nearby Finke River preceded the first routes). On the same portion of cliff as Chopper Wall, but is situated above the ledges that break the cliff at half height. Walk up the valley of scree on your R in front of the cliff, moving past a precariously leaning detached flake. Keep walking up the valley to gain the R end of the ledge system that runs across the cliff. Don't try and take the steep gully closer to the cliff. Walk back along the ledge to access the first climbs described (after So Good to Be Sober).

The following two climbs start down in the gully, and climb up to Vomit Wall proper. Start at precariously leaning detached flake (you walk past it on the walk up scree valley).

So Good To Be Sober 25m 14
Left leaning diagonal line leads up from a short corner behind the R end of this flake. Goshen Watts, Damian Auton 17/10/96

Eggs and Bacon Buffy 30m 11
Face 1m R of SGTBS. Up ramp to wide crack, ledge. Traverse 1m R to finish up finger crack. FA Allison Garrett, Dan Hasson 3/7/97

The following climbs are on Vomit Wall proper, and start from the very L hand end.

*Downwind of Vomit 30m 19
Obvious lightning crack splitting the blank section at the L end of the wall. Beautiful climbing up hand jams and finger locks, easing off at the roof high on the climb. Diagonally up R to finish up crack. Kieran Culhane, Annette Boelman, Steve Thornton 13/10/96

*Hangover 30m 20
The prominent corner/flake 5m R of DV forming a great curving layback, overhanging on one side. Layback your way up the pumpy crack to glory and fame. Finish at the same belay as DV. Goshen Watts, Eryne Hali 13/10/96

*Everything's Yerba, I Don't Think So… 30m 16
Nice climbing up L leaning diagonal crack, 5m R of Hangover. Follow L leaning crack, then straight up face when it ends. Damian Auton, Goshen Watts 17/10/96

*Hot Wet Canadian 25m 21
Start as for EYIDTS, just before you drop into the small gully. Climb up to the fabulous thin crack, which is followed (thin fiddly pro) till large ledge near the top. Beware the large loose flake - it'll stay if you treat it well. Traverse R into Chunky Little Boys and finish up this. The direct finish above the ledge was tried on the FA, but was found to have a lot of loose rock and bad pro. Kieran Culhane, Annette Boelman 13/10/96

*Chunky Little Boys 25m 16
Named after the contents of a tin of 'sausages and veg' that repeated itself on a happy camper the night before. Steve was once heard to say 'you can never get enough little boys (I think he had more than enough that night). Big crack from alcove, 3m R of HWC, just R of gully. Bomber pro all the way. Eryne Hali, Goshen Watts, Steve Thornton 13/10/96

*Earthly Pleasures 26m 17
Crack 5m R of CLB. Over bulge and up to ledge on the L. Goshen Watts, Damian Auton 17/10/96

*Yerba Flake 30m 17
Nice climbing on thin corner flake 2m R of EP, towards the R end of the wall. Up to overlap which is taken on L, then straight up face above. Damian Auton, Goshen Watts 17/10/96

The following two climbs ascend the first of the detached pinnacles at the R end of Vomit Wall, and in front of Yerba Flake.

Yerba Doddle 16m 15
Main crack in the middle of pinnacle, but veer L after a couple of metres to large triangular block. Over small rooflet and into big crack. Damian Auton, Goshen Watts 17/10/96

*Push Th' Little Daisies 16m 20
Brilliant climbing up curving thin crack. Some big nuts might be handy. Climb the initial crack 2m R of YD straight up before heading R up the thin curving crack. Last move is the crux. Don't pull out the flowers. Goshen Watts, Damian Auton 17/10/96

The Organ Pipes

The Organ Pipes are a deep orange colour and can be seen from the top of the faces on the S side of the waterhole. They face N so will be in the sun most of the day. You need to walk approximately 20 minutes S (1.5km downsteam) of the main waterhole. At times there is a small waterhole at the base of the pipes. One pipe sports an unmistakable 'eye'.

Since the FA details are incomplete, it has been assumed that the following two climbs were Top Roped, given the complete lack of protection, and difficulty of the grades.

*Eye in the Sky 18m 23
Sustained climbing on flaky rock. Start on the L near waterhole. Up the L arete until you're just below the top. Traverse R across the face, cracks, then up. FTRA Andrei Cleland, Andrew Drenen 11/7/91

*Eye in the Sky (Direct) 18m 24
Nice face, climbed after much cleaning of flakes. Up middle of face to cracks, and finish as for ES. FTRA Andrew Drenen, Andrei Cleland 11/7/91