Summary:
Moderate sport climbs on local quartzite, with easy access from Alice
Springs. You could ride your bike... Climbs are short but challenging.
Access
and Ethics:
Located within the Telegraph Station Conservation Reserve, there are no
access or restrictions at this crag.
Getting
There:
Head N on the Stuart Highway out of Alice Springs for about 5km, then
turn R onto a dirt track - ‘The Old Sturt Highway’. If you
get to the Charles River bridge, then you’ve gone a little too far.
Follow dirt track down, and then to the top of the rise, and park where
track turns a sharp L and begins to head downhill under the bridge. The
cliff is down R in the creek bed.
Notes:
Many of these routes have probably been climbed before, but
the ascents were unrecorded. Bring some bolt plates.
Where's Wally 6m 14
Just in case you need that big wall experience - this climb is a
complete waste of time. Tucked away where the creek takes a bend 100m
L of the main cliff. Clip the D-shackles, fling your way to the top, then
jump off into the sand below. DBB to avoid such an epic decent. FRA Allison
Garrett, Dominic Leadbetter, Kieran Culhane 2/7/95
Tears on My Pillow 8m 11
The first climb on the L end of the main cliff. Climb prominent crack
on the L side of the small arete. Tend R from small ledge halfway up.
BB. FRA Allison Garrett, Steve Thornton. 12/8/95.
Alley Cat 8m 12
L tending crack 1m R of TMP (just R of arete) to small ledge. Step
R, and up to belay as for TMP. FRA Allison Garrett, Colin Crowe 21/9/95.
*Tricky Moments 10m 19
Large scoop 2m R of AC to block, up to high BR, then straight up
past another BR to DBB. FRA Allison Garrett, Steve Thornton. 12/8/95.
*Face Value 10m 20
Start 1m R of TM, directly under FH. Climb though bulge and move
up face past 2 BR. Belay as for TM. FRA Allison Garrett, Steve Thornton.
12/8/95.
All Chossed Up 10m 18
Weakness 1m R of FV. Straight up ramp above to BB. FRA Goshen Watts,
Steve Thornton, Damian Auton 17/2/96.
Poker Face 10m 21
Face 1.5m L of useless white FH, past BR, then up to BR on SM. Step
R up steep bulge to DBB. FRA Goshen Watts, Steve Thornton 17/2/96.
*Smear Madness Direct 10m 21
A thinner but nicer climb. As for SM, but take line straight up from
useless white FH. To get the extra points, don't stray off the line! FRA
Kieran Culhane, Damian Auton 7/94
Smear Madness 10m 18
R side of main cliff face. Climb starts 1m R of unused white FH.
Climb face on the R of 2 FH, clipping them on the way. At chossy finger
ledge head L and up past FH, and over bulge to top. DBB. FRA Allison Garrett,
Steve Thornton. 12/8/95.
*Fat Nurse in a Swivel Chair 10m 16
Starts 1m R of SM at large scar on rock. Delicate moves past 2 BR,
horizontal seam, then another BR. Belay as for SM. FRA Allison Garrett,
Steve Thornton. 12/8/95.
...
8m 25?
A contrived and desperate boulder problem 10m R of FNSC. May be still
unclimbed.
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